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….the most isolated and unexplored of the Himalayas …
… a land where the soul of the main is still considered to be as real as the feet he walks on; a land to be “barren as a dead deer” but where beauty and happiness abound in spite of hardships.
Michel Peissel (1967)
(From: MUSTANG –A lost Tibetan Kingdom.)
Welcomed to the only living Walled City of Nepal . Built in 1380 AD, by the first King of L, Mme Pal, the walled city still stands as a testimony to Lo-Manthang's prosperity and rich culture heritage. The wall, which is 2472 feet long and 26 feet high, has a series of 14 towers along its periphery. These towers rise 40 feet high & are 6 feet wide at the top. During the reign of the Mustangi Rajas, the towers were guarded by armed guards to defend the town from bandits and enemies.
The only entrance to the town is through a huge wooden gate located to the east of the township. In early days, this gate was closed before dusk and opened at dawn. Until recently, the town inhabitants followed this rule dutifully, but the rule is no more in practice. Nonetheless, as in the past, expect for the Raja (King), dismount their horses while passing through the town gate. This custom is observed to pay respect to Avalokiteshwara (God of compassion), Mahne (Prayed wheel) and Jhong Lha (Deity of the fort) that are located in front of and above the Mahne respectively. The Raja, Rani and the Khempo considered as equals to the deities are not required to dismount their horses while entering the gate.
The city is divided into four traditional wards (Si-Shu), namely “Ghun-thang”, “Domaling”, “Potaling” and “Jhythang”. These names refer to as the shrines of Deities from the respective wards. “Ghun-thang” is the shrine of “Tara” or “Doma”; “Potaling” the shrine of “Dipangar Buddha” or “Hyepo Mehe”, and “Jhythang” the shrine of “Jhampa” or “Maitria, the future Buddha. These wards take turn to perform various religions and social of the town.
About 1100 Lobas (people of Lo), live the 180 mud houses of the walled city, and surprisingly, they observed a form of caste-hierarchy. This may be the reason why it is mainly Kudak (Bista- the nobility & royalty of Lo) and the Phalwa (Gurung) who live within the walled city. Ghara (black smith), Shemba (butcher) and Emeta (musician) mostly live in the settlement beside the Lo-Manthang River that flows to the east of yhe city. The Raja and Rani of Mustang live in “Monkhar” - the four storied white-washed palace located in the middle of the town. The palace was believed to be built by the first King of Mustang, Ame Pal, in the early 14 th century. The present Raja is his twenty-second descendent.
Livestock husbandry combined with agriculture is still the mainstay of the economy. Seasonal migration for trade to the southern parts of Nepal and North India and barter Trade with neighboring Tibet supplements household income. With the advent of tourism in Lo in 1992, few local people have also started taking up tourist as a new economic profession.
To prevent fragmentation of family property, some Lobas still practice Polyandry. A woman is married to all the brothers of a family.
Lo-Manthang's culture is deep rooted in the religious sentiments of its people. The township abound with many chhortens, mani-walls and monasteries. Prayer flags flutter above all the houses-conveying mantras to all corners of the world. The Lobas are exclusively Buddhists and conform to the Sakya-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Bon prevailed before Buddhism, which was later replaced by Ningma Pa Sect (Dhakar-Kayu subsect) and subsequently by Sakya Pa Sect (Sakyapa, Ngorpa subsects) of Buddhism.
Of the three Gompas in Lo-Manthang, the Jhampa Gompa is the oldest. It was built in 1387 AD during the reign of the famous king Anguin Sangbo and is believed to be a replica of Ghangtse Jhampa Gompa of Tibet , which still exists in Ghangtse, near Khasa.
The three storied Jhampa Gompa is an exemplary piece of art. It amply exhibits Lo-Manthang's great architectural depth of the past. The uniqueness of thisGompa lies in gold painted tantric mandalas entirely covering the interiors of the wall of the first and second floors. The main prayer hall is painted with double register of Mandalas interspersed with smaller attraction. One will be surprised to know that the walls of the Gompa are 5 feet and 4 inches thick! The Gompa is 55 feet high, 150 feet long and 80 feet wide.
Thupchen is second oldest Gompa of the Town. It was built in the early 15 th century by Tashi Gon, the third Raja of Mustang. Despite being smaller than Jhamba, Thupchen is an equally rich archetype of Tibetan art. The main hall ‘Dukhang' has beautiful ceiling and wall paintings of natural color and gold and silver paints. The wall paintings bear various images of Buddha and other deities in different mudras. The wooden beams in Dukhang carry Buddhist mantra engraved in it and the ceiling has beautifully placed rafters. In its heyday, Thupchen was the major center of religious in Lo-Manthang.
Resided by the Khempo, Chhaede Gompa presently is the main Gompa of Lo and also the center of religious activity . It was built by a King named A-HamTshewang Phuntsok Tskgyen Norbu in 1757. The present Chhoede Gompa is a merger of the then Choprang Gompa and Dhakar-Thungling Chhoede Gompa. This Gompa houses beautiful Thangka (Buddhist religious paintings) and images, including the sacred Thangka of Mahakala and Dorje Sonnu (Vajra Kilas). Mahakala is a wrathful manifestation of Avalokiteshwara and Dorje Sonnu is main deity of the Tenchi festival.
Techi is the most popular festival of Lo Tsho Dhun, and is celebrated over three days to mark the killing of a demon by Dorje Sonnu, the demon's son. Tenchi is a derivation of the Tibetan word “Tempa Chirim”, meaning a prayer for world piece. The festival is celebrated on the fifth month of the Tibetan calander, which usually come to place in May. Two huge Thangkas are displayed during the occasion. Numerous other festivals are celebrated throughout the year. Some important ones are Mhane Dance (which marks the killing of a demon through a dance drama), Sakaluka (seed sowing ceremony for good harvest), Duk chu (Monk's dance and prayer for a prosperous New Year), Chug Emma (House hold prays for a prosperous New Year), Phakne (group of same age visit different holy places), Loh Sar (New Year)and so forth.
A Monastic School- Tse Chhen Shedrubling Tukling Mon Gon Lobdra – is attached to the Chhoede Gompa. This si the only Sakya-pa monastic school of Upper Mustang where young monks (Dhawa) are taught on the teachings of Buddha. There are about 90 monks currently studying in this center.
The people of Lo have for long relied on traditional herbal medicines to cure ailments and the faith still holds true. With some donor support, an Amchi school now runs in Lo under the Management of the local Amchi family (Tibetan Herbal Doctor).
If you have a permit if more than 13 days, and the places are also specified on it, Chhoser & Chhunup VDCs are places worth visiting.
Chhoser is famous for its cave culture. In the past, a whole village lived in one cave and the Jhong cave, which is 5 storied and has more than 40 rooms, is a standing proof. The people of Achenbuk are proud of their cave houses and the Nyphu Goompa, which is half inside the cave, is still existent. Walking along the major trading route with Tibet , Chhoser can be reached in about 3 hour from Lo.
In Thinker village of Chhunup you will find the Summer Palace of the Raja. Namgyal Gompa and Ketcher Dzong are other places to visit in Chhunup. The Ketcher Dzong is the first palace built by Ame Pal, the first Raja of Musstang, in the early 14 th century.
Few local people speak English and it will be useful to have one of them as your guide.
Have a nice trip!!!
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